After I mentioned that the Berkeley lunch program was in poor shape, Ann Cooper, the chef in charge, invited me to visit — to set the record straight. It was quite an opportunity; the Berkeley lunch program, some hope, will become a model for the whole country. This is why there was a long New Yorker article recently about what Cooper is doing.
Spending about $1/day more per student, Cooper has shifted the lunch menu far away from the heavily-processed and factory-made food of most school lunches. Far more of the food is cooked in the district kitchens, albeit days in advance in some cases. I took Cooper’s word for it that the students actually eat the new food. This is a great improvement, in my opinion. The big questions are whether these changes are sustainable and what effect they will have.
The single best thing you can do for your health is to eat healthy food (the exact nature of which has yet to be determined, but you get the idea). Obesity, diabetes, heart disease, cancer, stroke — all the big American health problems are made much worse by the crummy diet of most Americans. Will Cooper’s improved lunches cause her lucky diners to eat better as adults? If so, $1/day is a great bargain compared to health care costs. (She estimated these changes will cost $2/day across the country.) Will Cooper’s improvements reduce obesity and diabetes? That is obviously the hope.
I wouldn’t say the Berkeley school lunch program is in trouble or in poor shape; I would say it is in limbo. Four things are big question marks:
1. Cooper seemed to be working very hard and not quite enjoying it. Even after a year on the job. This is not a good sign. Her salary is being paid by the Chez Panisse Foundation — not a good sign. She struck me as incredibly dedicated but how much failure and frustration can she and the Chez Panisse Foundation bear? This sort of thing is often much harder than anyone imagines in the beginning.
2. Obesity is a big big issue. Whether the new food will help is unknown. Cooper seems to take it on faith that her food will be less fattening. I am less sure. As anyone who has read The Shangri-La Diet knows, I believe that American food became really fattening not because it was processed or “unhealthy” but because of the increasing popularity of foods that tasted exactly the same each time (e.g., microwave entrees). If she cooks the same recipes again and again, the hoped-for weight loss may not happen. If it doesn’t, will the program continue? Or will $1/day be seen as better spent on something that hasn’t yet failed, such as more physical ed?
3. The effects of Cooper’s changes are going to be measured by UC Berkeley School of Public Health researchers. As far as I could make out, the comparison will be between Berkeley students and students in another school district. You have n = 1 (1 school district) in the experimental group and n = 1 (1 school district) in the control group. This is better than nothing but, given the importance of the question — can better school lunches improve health for the rest of a student’s life — and our great ignorance as to its answer, it is scary bad. It will be so easy to reach the wrong answer. Researchers with this sort of design often act as if they have hundreds of subjects in each group — each student is treated as a different and randomly-assigned subject. This isn’t just false, it’s misleading.
4. While I am sure the researchers can measure obesity, I am less sure they will do a decent job of measuring changes in attitudes toward food. It is not a typical public health question.
I am very optimistic about the future of food — and therefore health — in America, but it’s because of (a) the Food Network, (b) the growth of farmers’ markets, and (c) the success of Whole Foods and similar stores. Not to mention Rachael Ray. Americans are becoming food connoisseurs, starting to catch up with a large chunk of the rest of the world, such as China. The American increase in connoisseurship is trickle-down — from rich people to everyone else. Like cell phones, like TVs, like literacy, like many things. Whereas Ann Cooper is working in a school district that has lots of poor people. Not a good place to start this sort of revolution.
Addendum: This article in New York magazine reminded me that Ann Cooper’s previous job was at an expensive private school. So maybe it is another case of trickle-down after all.