A few years ago, I learned that persons who apply to the Chez Panisse Foundation for funding are warned by staffers not to use the word nutrition in their applications — Alice Waters hates that word. A more nuanced version of this attitude was expressed in Michael Pollan’s In Defense of Food. Supposedly we should eat food (= choose our food using food names and categories) rather than nutrients (= choose our food according to nutrient content). Here is Marian Nestle, the prolific and influential NYU professor, on the subject:
Q: How do nutritionists feel about Michael Pollan’s idea in “In Defense of Food” that we should be eating food, not nutrients?
A: I can’t speak for all nutritionists, but my guess is that we are all jealous of how well he writes. But look around you. Except for people in hospitals who are fed intravenously, I don’t know anyone who eats nutrients. Everybody I know eats food.
When I give lectures in Australia or India, as I did last year, I see people eating food – all kinds of food. In Australia, I went to a Chinese restaurant one night and sampled kung pao kangaroo. In India, I ate dosas every chance I got. I never gave the nutrient content of those foods a single thought.
“Everybody I know” indeed. Our understanding of vitamins comes from nutrition research that, contra Waters, Pollan and Nestle, focused on nutrients rather than food. This research has been enormously beneficial, mainly among the poor and institutionalized. From a review article about Vitamin A:
By 1992, most large-scale mortality prevention trials and at least 3 measles treatment trials [in poor countries] were completed. A meeting convened at the Rockefeller retreat in Bellagio reached consensus that vitamin A deficiency increased overall mortality, particularly from measles; improving vitamin A status would reduce overall mortality; and treating children already ill with measles with high-dose vitamin A was an effective means of reducing their risk of complications and death. This “Bellagio Brief,”published widely, helped draw attention to the importance of vitamin A. . . . National programs of varying effectiveness have been launched in over 70 countries and vitamin A “coverage” is now one of the core health indicators published annually in the State of the World’s Children. By UNICEF’s estimate, over one-half a billion vitamin A capsules are distributed every year, preventing 350,000 childhood deaths annually. . . . The World Bank lists vitamin A supplementation as one of the most cost-effective of all medical interventions.
This isn’t esoteric knowledge.