One Man’s Interest in Fermented Foods

Julie O’Brien and Richard Climenhage run a small company in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle called Firefly Kitchens, devoted to making fermented foods. The company was founded in 2010.

Climenhage, a former high-tech executive, became intrigued with fermented foods about 10 years ago after a nutritionist suggested he consume more fats and fermented food. It cured the chronic heart palpitations that he had endured for two years.

“Six weeks and two days after changing my eating the palpitations were gone, never to return,” Climenhage said. “So I was sold. I started making my own sauerkraut and never looked back.”

New Product: Cascal Fermented Soda


This low-calorie soda (60 to 80 calories in a 12-ounce can) falls somewhere between kombucha and less-sweet sodas such as the aptly named GUS (Grown Up Soda). Its hook is the use of fermented juices as its base, resulting in a more complex flavor than sodas and sparkling waters based on plain juice.

$1.25 at Whole Foods. I’m in.

My interest in fermented foods partly derives from learning about a similar product. At a Fancy Food Show a few years ago, I learned about someone who wanted to develop a high-end non-alcoholic alternative to wine. He found he couldn’t get enough complexity without fermentation. That emphasized to me how our food preferences — in this case, a desire for complexity — push us to eat fermented foods.

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Thanks to Rashad Mahmood.

The Complex Flavor of Fermented Foods

One of the main reasons I think we need to eat fermented foods to be healthy is that their flavors correspond neatly to the flavors we like. Fermentation of fruits and other sweet foods changes sugars to acids, making the food taste sour — and we like sour food. Fermentation of proteins produces glutamate, which produces an umami flavor — and we like umami-flavored food. With many foods, their fermentation produces many microbial byproducts, giving the food a complex flavor — and we like complex flavors.

The connection between fermentation and complex flavor is well-put in a Saveur article about fermented foods:

[As a child] I only knew Claussen and other vinegar-cured pickles, the kind you buy in jars off the supermarket shelf, and I liked them just fine. But when I finally tasted a real pickle—the kind made the old-fashioned way, fermented with nothing more than salt, water, and time—I realized what I had been missing. A vinegary pickle plows through your palate with its tartness (often in a most pleasing way), but a live-cultured, salt-cured, fermented one tells a more multifaceted story. It is sour, to be sure, but it tastes of something more, something elusive: It’s the flavor of Middle Europe captured in one bite. When I started cooking for a living, I realized that the complexity I’d tasted in that pickle is the hallmark of well-made fermented foods, which include some of my very favorite things to eat and drink: not just pickles, but aged cheeses, tangy sourdough breads, blistering kimchis, tart yogurts, winy salamis, and of course, wine itself.

 

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  • American-Afghan detainee dispute. “The conflict over the Americans’ insistence that some detainees should continue to be held without charge had [become] public.” Via Ron Unz.
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  • How to improve doctor performance. “Without telling his partners, Dr. Rex began reviewing videotapes of their [colonoscopy] procedures, measuring the time and assigning a quality score. After assessing 100 procedures, he announced to his partners that he would be timing and scoring the videos of their future procedures (even though he had already been doing this). Overnight, things changed radically. The average length of the procedures increased by 50%, and the quality scores by 30%. The doctors performed better when they knew someone was checking their work.”
  • Pistachio miso and other unusual fermented foods.

Thanks to Tyler Cowen, Alex Chernavsky, Patrick Vlaskovits, Chuck Currie and Bryan Castañeda.

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Benefits of Fermented Foods

A simple story:

When Steven Kent did an internship at The Farm, a hippie commune in rural Tennessee, he had an epiphany. Eating a steady diet of sauerkraut, pickled vegetables, sourdough bread and other fermented foods, he found the digestive problems that had plagued him since college largely vanished.

There is more here about tempeh (fermented tofu) and a small Northern California company that Kent started called Alive and Healing that makes only tempeh.

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Thanks to Adam Clemens.

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Thanks to Tim Beneke and Bryan Castañeda.