The chocolates of Poco Dolce (which means “not too sweet”) have been named “top ten” in America by Saveur. One of Poco Dolce’s products is a bittersweet chocolate square with double-roasted almonds.
“Why double-roasted?” I asked Kathy Wiley, who makes the chocolates, at the San Francisco Chocolate Salon. Double roasting — roast, cool, roast again — produces a better flavor, she said. “Why not just roast them longer?” I asked. Because you are more likely to over-cook them. There are special ovens for roasting nuts but she doesn’t have one.
This is basic material science. Wiley wants to maximize the concentration of certain molecules (that produce a roasted almond flavor) while minimizing the concentration of other molecules (that produce a burnt flavor). By trial and error she has figured out how. She was able to do the trial and error — i.e., research — because her business is successful. Her business is successful in large part because of connoisseurship and gift rituals. People give her products as gifts.
I believe we have genetic tendencies toward connoisseurship and gift-giving holidays and rituals because, long ago, these tendencies supported research in material science. Pleasure from finely-made things and desire for gifts supported artists and artisans, who by trial and error learned better control of their materials. Poco Dolce is a latter-day example.