Is Drinking Olive Oil Healthy?

In Cities and the Wealth of Nations, Jane Jacobs wrote about an isolated North Carolina hamlet that her aunt visited in 1923:

One of my aunt’s tasks there was to see to construction of a church. . . One of the farmers donated, as a site, a beautiful knoll beside the river and my aunt suggested the building be made of fine large stones which were already quarried, as it were, needing little dressing, there for the taking in the creek and river beds. No, said the community elders, it was a pretty idea but not possible. . . . Entire walls and buildings of stone would not be safe.

These people came of a parent culture that had not only reared stone parish churches from time immemorial, but great cathedrals.

Likewise, nutritional wisdom is forgotten. Drinking olive oil now seems absurd to some people. But it was practiced in at least one place in the not-so-distant past:

In a mountain village in Crete, [Ancel] Keys saw old farmers working in the field who drank only a glass of olive oil for breakfast; he later verified that one of them was 106 years old.

From Todd Tucker, The Great Starvation Experiment, p. 204. There is a whole organization (Oldways) devoted to preserving ancient foodways and using them for nutritional guidance. The best practitioner of this approach has been Dr. Weston Price, a dentist, whose work is nicely summarized here. Dr. Price traveled the world looking for economically-primitive societies (“native peoples”) with ancient eating habits and excellent health. Their diets, especially the common elements, would suggest what a healthy diet must have.

Two of Dr. Price’s conclusions are relevant to the Shangri-La Diet:

1. “All native peoples studied made great efforts to obtain seafood.” This supports my comments about the importance of omega-3 fats, found much more in seafood than in other foods.

2. “The last major feature of native diets that Price found was that they were rich in fat, especially animal fat.” The animal fat in native diets would be high in omega-3 because the animals were eating grasses and other plants, not corn.

When I wrote my long paper on self-experimentation I divided it into two parts: one titled “Stone-Age Life Suits Us” (the common thread of the five examples), the other about weight control (the research behind SLD). The two parts struck me as quite different. Drinking sugar water to lose weight was definitely not a return to a Stone-Age lifestyle. But the big improvements in SLD since I wrote that paper — from sugar water to ELOO, and from ELOO to oils high in omega-3 — brought SLD much closer to the Stone-Age-Life-Suits-Us theme, I now see.

Going Flavorless

Gary Skaleski, the Wisconsin counselor who came up with nose-clipping (= eating food with your nose closed, especially with a swimmer’s nose clip), has tried eating all his food that way:

The last time I wrote to you I had started gaining again and not following the SLD as I should have been (off and on). However, since then I have been eating everything, all day long, without tasting anything (even coffee, diet soda)-avoiding [flavor] completely, but eating well. After a couple of days, the appetite suppression came back with a vengeance and am losing again.

What was the most interesting was the difficulty I had starting this, and the sense of loss/regret and avoidance I had to doing it, and not being able to [smell] anything. While I recommended this procedure for others, I avoided it myself. But now I am on day 3 of [flavorlessness] and am doing well. . . . Interesting new needs come up-need for something crunchy, something smooth tasting, etc. . . . does help one focus on the feeling of different foods while eating, as well as becoming more sensitive to real hunger feelings (amazed at how much taste runs one’s eating).

He believes, as do I, that this may be useful in extreme cases. Let’s compare gastric bypass surgery (GSB) and eating like this (NC, for nose-clipping) on several dimensions. Dangerous? GSB: very. NC: no. Reversible? GSB: no. NC: yes. Adjustable? GSB: no. NC: very. You can do it every other day, for example. You can nose-clip some foods but not others. Cost? GSB: $20,000 or more. NC: $5 (swimmer’s nose clips).

Web Trials

Thanks to Rey Arbolay, at the Shangri-La Diet forums, the eternal question “will this help?” is being answered in a new way. The specific question is “will the Shangri-La Diet help me lose weight?” The new way of answering it is that people are posting their results with the diet in the Post Your Tracking Data Here section of the forums. What they post is standardized and numerical enough that ordinary statistical methods can be used to learn from them. I’ll call this sort of thing a web trial.

It’s a lot better than nothing or a series of individual cases studied separately. I learned a lot from my most recent analysis — for example, that people lose at a rate of about 1 pound per week after Week 5. I couldn’t have done a good job of predicting where any of the fitted lines on the scatterplots would be or the size of the male/female difference. Nor could I have done a good job predicting the variability — the scatter around the lines.

It’s a lot worse than perfection. It would be much better if a comparison treatment (in the case of SLD, a different way of losing weight) was being tested in the same way. Then results from the two treatments could be compared and you would be closer to answering the practical question “what should I do?” (That modern clinical trials — very difficult and expensive — still use placebo control groups although placebos are not serious treatment options is a sign of . . . something not good.)

I can imagine a future in which people with a health problem (acne, insomnia, etc.) go to a website and enroll in a web trial. They told about several plausible treatments: A, B, C, etc., all readily available. They are given a choice of (a) choosing among them or (b) being randomly assigned. They post their results in a standardized format for a few weeks or months. Then someone with data analysis skills analyzes the data and posts the results. As for the participants, if the problem hasn’t been solved they could enroll again. This would be a way that anyone with a problem could help everyone with that problem, including themselves. The people who set up the trials and analyze the results would be like the book industry or Wikipedia insiders — people with special skills who help everyone learn from everyone.

Brian Wansink on Research Design

An experiment in which people eat soup from a bottomless bowl? Classic! Or mythological: American Sisyphus. It really happened. It was done by Brian Wansink, a professor of marketing and nutritional science in the Department of Applied Economics and Management at Cornell University, and author of the superb new book Mindless Eating: Why We Eat More Than We Think (which the CBC has called “the Freakonomics of food”). The goal of the bottomless-soup-bowl experiment was to learn about what causes people to stop eating. One group got a normal bowl of tomato soup; the other group got a bowl endlessly and invisibly refilled. The group with the bottomless bowl ate two-thirds more than the group with the normal bowl. The conclusion is that the amount of food in front of us has a big effect on how much we eat.

There are many academic departments (called statistics departments) that study the question of what to do with your data after you collect it. There is not even one department anywhere that studies the question of what data to collect — which is much more important, as every scientist knows. To do my little bit to remedy this curious and unfortunate imbalance, I have decided to ask the best scientists I know about research design. My interview with Brian Wansink (below) is the first in what I hope will be a series.

SR: Tell me something you’ve learned about research design.

BW: When I was a graduate student [at the Stanford Business School], I would jog on the school track. One day on the track I met a professor who had recently gotten tenure. He had only published three articles (maybe he had 700 in the pipeline), so his getting tenure surprised me. I asked him: What’s the secret? What was so great about those three papers? His answer was two words: “Cool data.” Ever since then I’ve tried to collect cool data. Not attitude surveys, which are really common in my area. Cool data is not always the easiest data to collect but it is data that gets buzz, that people talk about.

SR: What makes data cool?

BW: It’s data where people do something. Like take more M&Ms on the way out of a study. All the stuff in the press about psychology — none of it deals with attitude change. Automaticity is seldom a rating, that’s why it caught on. It’s how long they looked at something or how fast they walked. That’s why I’ve been biassed toward field studies. You lose control sometimes in field studies compared to lab studies, but the loss is worth it.

The popcorn study is an example. We found that people ate more popcorn when we gave them bigger buckets. I’d originally done all that in a lab. So that’s great, that’s enough to get it published. But it’s not enough to make people go “hey, that’s cool.” I found a movie theatre that would let me do it. It became expensive because we needed to buy a lot of buckets of popcorn. Once you find out it happens in real theatres, people go “cool.” You can’t publish it in great journal because you can’t get 300 covariates; we published it in slightly less prestigious journal but it had much greater impact than a little lab study would have had.

One thing we found in that study was that there was an effect of bucket size regardless of how people rated the popcorn. Even people who hated the taste ate more with the bigger bucket. We asked people what they thought of the popcorn. We took the half of the people who hated the popcorn the most — even they showed the effect. But there was range restriction — the average rating in that group was only 5.0 on a 1-9 scale — not in the “sucky” category. Then we used old popcorn. The results were really dramatic. It worked with 5-day-old popcorn. It worked with 14-day-old popcorn — that way I could say “sitting out for 2 weeks.” That study caught a lot of attention. The media found it interesting. I didn’t publish the 5-day-old popcorn study.

I’m a big believer in cool data. The design goal is: How far can we possibly push it so that it makes it a vivid point? Most academics push it just far enough to get it published. I try to push it beyond that to make it much more vivid. That’s what [Stanley] Milgram did with his experiments. First, he showed obedience to authority in the lab. Then he stripped away a whole lot of things to show how extreme it was. He took away lab coats, the college campus. That’s what made it so powerful.

SR: A good friend of mine, Saul Sternberg, went to graduate school with Milgram. They had a clinical psychology class together. The professor was constantly criticizing rat experiments. This was the 1950s. He said that rats were robot-like, not a good model for humans. One day Milgram and my friend brought a shoebox to class. In the box was a rat. They put the box on the seminar table and opened it, leaving the rat on the table. The rat sniffed around very cautiously. Cautious and curious, much more like a person than like a robot. It was a brilliant demonstration. My friend thinks of Milgram’s obedience experiments as more like demonstrations than experiments. But you are right, they are experiments consciously altered to be like demonstrations. Those experiments were incredibly influential, of course — it supports your point.

BW: When we first did the soup bowl studies, we refilled the soup bowls so that we gave people larger and smaller portions than they thought had. We heated the soup up for them but gave them 25% more to see if they would eat more than they thought. You could put that in an okay journal. The bottomless soup bowl would be more cool. Cool data is harder to get published and it’s much more of hassle to collect the data, but it creates incredible loyalty among grad students, because they think they are doing something more exciting. It’s more of military operation than if they are just collecting some little pencil-and-paper thing in the lab. It makes research more of an adventure.

Another thing: field experiments are difficult. There’s a general tendency in research to be really underpowered with things [that is, to not have enough subjects]. Let’s say you’re doing the popcorn bucket study. Is the effect [of bucket size] going to come out? Rather than having too many cells and not get significance, it’s a good idea to have fewer cells — replace a manipulated variable with one or two measured variables. For example, instead of doing a two-by-two between-subjects design we might have a design when one factor is measured rather than manipulated. If the measured factor doesn’t come out you haven’t lost anything; you still have all the power. With the popcorn study we knew the study would work with the big bucket [that is, we knew there would be an effect of bucket size] but we didn’t know if there would be an effect of bucket size if we gave them [both good corn and] bad corn [thereby doing a two-by-two study] and only 200 people showed up [leaving only 50 people per cell]. So when we did the field study for the first time, we gave them all popcorn 5 days old. We measured their taste preference for popcorn then used it as a crossing variable. We used scores on that measure to divide the subjects into two groups.

SR: Let’s stop here. This is great stuff.

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Most of the VCP-310 professionals advice against PMI-001 and suggest going for EX0-101 instead, proceeding to CCIE-LAB finally.

Ranjit Chandra Update

If you have been following the strange case of Dr. Ranjit Chandra, you may be interested to know:

1. He has sued the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) because of a documentary they ran last year titled “The Secret Life of Dr. Chandra”. A lawyer for the CBC told me last week the lawsuit is at a very early stage.

2. A paper about Dr. Chandra’s research by Saul Sternberg and me has been accepted by Nutrition Journal, an open-source journal. Our third and final paper on the subject.

The Wikipedia entry for Chandra has a good summary of the story so far.

Crazy-Spicing 3.0: Fava Bean Crostini

Here is another way — in addition to ELOO, refined walnut oil, other flavorless oils, sugar water, nose-clipped smoothies, crazy-spiced smoothies, and nose-clipped food in general — to get “SLD calories” — by which I mean food that raises your set point much less than usual. I love this dish.

How to make crazy-spiced fava bean crostini:

1. Soak dried fava beans for 12-24 hours. I make about 1 pound at a time. One pound of beans makes about 6 servings.

2. Skin the beans. I make a small tear along the rim of the bean and then push the inside out. Takes a few seconds per bean. Discard the skins.

3. Cook the beans. I put them in a crockpot on high for 3 hours covered in water but any cooking method is okay.

4. Mash the beans, adding finely chopped onion and your favorite oil. I usually use flaxseed oil. The onion is for texture. At this point I have several meals worth. I store it in the refrigerator.

5. Slice a ciabatta-like bread into long thin pieces. Toast.

6. Add random spices to the beans. I use 4 or 5 Penzey’s spice blends. If the beans have been refrigerated I warm them in the microwave before this step.

7. Spread the bean mixture on the toast.

8. Add an interesting topping, which can be almost anything. I have used tomatoes, cooked mushrooms, and chopped arugula.

Background.
Crazy spicing means adding randomly-chosen spices (say, 10-20) to your food so that the flavor is unrecognizable. The theory behind the Shangri-La Diet predicts that this will cause weight loss. No flavor recognition = no set point increase = lower set point = weight loss. The closest thing to a test of this prediction — making the flavor of food less recognizable will cause weight loss — was an experiment done by Alan Hirsch, a Chicago neurologist. A few hundred people sprinkled flavor crystals on all of their food for six months — one flavor for savory foods, another for sweet. The flavor crystals changed once a month. The subjects lost a substantial amount of weight.

The problem with adding random spices to ordinary food is the feeling of loss — “Alas, my beloved X.” Crazy Spicing 2.0 — crazy-spiced smoothies — solved this problem by putting the spices in a homemade smoothie, which does not have an expected taste (so no feeling of loss) and can also be made to taste good in ways that do not involve flavor recognition (sweet, salty, creamy, cooling, and thirst-quenching). Smoothies, however, do not look like ordinary food nor are they crunchy and chewy — something I’ve noticed I especially want now that I eat less. The fava bean crostini look fine — I had something similar at Chez Panisse — and have a great texture. They are wonderfully crunchy and chewy. Toppings can make the texture even better.

Notes. 1. I have tried less expensive, less glamorous beans just once; the texture was less appealing. It is not far from hummus (garbanzo bean paste), however. I have not tried garbanzo beans. 2. Add the spices once per meal. Each meal a new set of spices, in other words. If you add the spices just once and then eat the result many times, it becomes a ditto food. 3. Beans have a low glycemic index, another good feature of this dish. 4. To make it more nutritious, you can add protein powder or almost anything else you would add to a smoothie. It already has lots of fiber. 5. This is something I make far in advance. Make it on Sunday, eat for the rest of the week, for example. The only lengthy step — skinning the beans — I actually enjoy. 6. Why do I love this dish? Because of the full-bodied crunchiness and chewiness. Because it looks as good as restaurant food. Because the toppings allow room for creativity. Because once I have made a batch, it takes just a few minutes to make a meal’s worth (toasting the bread is the most time-consuming part). Because I’ve always liked fava beans.

Tea, Wine, Chocolate — and Coffee

Jacob Grier, who works in a coffee shop, has written to say that coffee deserves to be on my list of connoisseur-type foods with health benefits (previous entries: tea, wine, and chocolate). For the health benefits of coffee, read this and this. Thanks, Jacob. In Berkeley, Peets (coffee) and Scharfenberger (chocolate) have created several products together. Let’s see: Peets and Scharfenberger, Teance and Charles Chocolates . . . the wine/chocolate category seems underpopulated. By eerie coincidence, today I watched an episode of Weeds (Season 1, Episode 3) in which the heroine goes to a cannabis club (dispensing medical marijuana) where she learns about fancy grades of marijuana she never knew existed.

Tea, Wine, and Chocolate: A Puzzle

Last night I went to the opening of the lovely Teance store on Fourth Street (Berkeley). Teance specializes in Asian teas, with some Indian teas as well. They used to be elsewhere in Berkeley, but their lease ran out. At the new location, they replace a gift shop, which makes sense: Fourth Street is foodifying. Teance fits well with the other upscale food stores in the area, such as the Pasta Shop.

But enough about small business. At the opening, someone from a local tea appreciation society gave a brief talk. Two things he said made me think. One was: “We drink tea for fun. The health benefits are just a bonus.” The other was a comparison of tea and wine. Tea is now where wine was thirty years ago. Since then there has been a vast increase in wine appreciation. “Thirty years ago if it was a special occasion you drank a bottle of Blue Nun. Now every kid on a skateboard knows the difference between merlot and cabernet sauvignon.”

Wine has health benefits, of course. A few weeks ago I went to a little tour/talk/demonstration at Charles Chocolates in Emeryville, where a few of the fine points of making chocolates (the candies, not the raw ingredient) were explained. Chocolate, too, has health benefits, as the makers of Cocoavia will be happy to explain. (Charles Chocolates has partnered with Teance to produce a line of tea-flavored chocolates, which were served at the opening.)

Three foods with intense connoisseurship action, three foods with substantial health benefits:

1. Wine

2. Tea

3. Chocolate

A coincidence? Or meaningful? Will cheese turn out to have health benefits? As a general rule, connoisseurship and health are unrelated: That hand-painted Italian flatware is no better for you than K-Mart’s finest (at least before the partnership with Martha Stewart, who called their customers “K-Martians”.)

I became interested in connoisseurship because of my interest in human evolution. Connoisseurship evolved, I believe, because it supported high-end craftsmanship. Skilled craftspeople were the main source of technological innovation. Connoisseurs happily pay more for high-end, carefully-made stuff. The tea spokesman was right: We drink it for fun.

Grass-Fed Beef, the Shangri-La Diet, and the Future of Food

A recent Slate article compared beef from different sources. “We sampled rib-eye steaks from the best suppliers I could find. The meat was judged on flavor, juiciness, and tenderness and then assigned an overall preference.”

The winner: grass-fed beef, which was also the least expensive ($22/pound). The highly-convincing tasting notes:

Never have I witnessed a piece of meat so move grown men (and women). Every taster but one instantly proclaimed the grass-fed steak the winner, commending it for its “beautiful,” “fabu,” and “extra juicy” flavor (that “bursts out on every bite.” The lone holdout, who preferred the Niman Ranch steak, agreed that this steak tasted the best, but found it a tad chewy.

The grass-fed beef was probably the highest in omega-3, by the way. What the writer found wrong with grass-fed beef was lack of consistency:

One grass-fed rancher I spoke to refused to send me any steak for this article because, he said, it sometimes tastes like salmon. Restaurants and supermarkets don’t like grass-fed beef because like all slow food, grass-fed beef producers can’t guarantee consistency-it won’t look and taste exactly the same every time you buy it.

From the standpoint of the Shangri-La Diet, of course, variable flavor is a plus — a big one. I expect a similar result with other foods — the more variable foods taste better. As any engineer knows, the less you have to worry about keeping a variable (such as flavor) constant, the more you can do to maximize it.

Thanks to Clyde Adams for the link.

More Evidence That Fat Is Not Bad For You

In the most recent issue of American Journal of Epidemiology (15 November 2006) is an article about whether there is a connection between dietary fat and breast cancer. They found no connection. Part of the abstract:

Dietary fat in midlife has not been associated with breast cancer risk in most studies, but few have followed women beyond one decade. The authors examined the relation of dietary fat, assessed by repeated questionnaires, to incidence of postmenopausal breast cancer in a cohort of 80,375 US women (3,537 new cases) prospectively followed for 20 years between 1980 and 2000. The multivariable relative risk for an increment of 5% of energy from total dietary fat intake was 0.98 (95% confidence interval: 0.95, 1.00). Additionally, specific types of fat were not associated with an increased risk of breast cancer.

Reference: Dietary Fat and Risk of Postmenopausal Breast Cancer in a 20-year Follow-up. Esther H. J. Kim, Walter C. Willett, Graham A. Colditz, Susan E. Hankinson, Meir J. Stampfer, David J. Hunter, Bernard Rosner, and Michelle D. Holmes. Am. J. Epidemiol. 2006 164: 990-997.